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Routers are all about grooves. You can make straight,
square grooves with a circular saw or a miter saw, but doing so
takes a long time and it's hard to get the ends of the cut to look
neat. You're out of luck entirely if you need a curved slot (say,
for a roll-top desk cover) or one with a nonsquare profile (such
as those used for decorative moldings). If you're going to build
furniture or cabinetry, you have to be able to make grooves and
create profiled edges. In other words, you need a good router.
The
Two Types: Plunge and Fixed-Base
There are two
basic varieties of routers: plunge and fixed-base. Plunge
routers allow you to make cutting-depth adjustments on the fly,
without having to turn off the motor. Because you can move the router
into position and then lower the bit accurately, they're great for
blind dadoes and other slots that don't terminate at the edge of
the workpiece. They also excel at cutting mortises and following
patterns. Some folks don't like plunge routers because they tend
to have higher centers of gravity than fixed-base routers of similar
power, and are therefore more awkward to handle. However, this isn't
a problem if you plan to mount your router in a router table, which
you can buy for relatively little money or make in an afternoon.
Fixed-base
routers are best used for jobs that don't require midcut adjustments
to the depth of the cut. They're great for dado work, cutting rabbets,
and putting decorative facings on edges, and D-handled versions
can be turned on and off with a trigger switch so you don't have
to take your hand off the router. Fixed-base routers also tend to
be smaller, lighter, and less expensive than plunge routers. Actually,
you can lock a plunge router at a certain depth and use it just
like a fixed-base router. But unless you have a specific need for
the adjustable-depth feature of a plunge router, you'll probably
be very happy with a fixed-base router.
Details
and Accessories
Handles:
You'll have to choose between D-handles
and knobs. Both handle styles have their advocates, and preferences
seem to have as much to do with familiarity as anything else. However,
D-handles do put a trigger switch right under your index finger.
That's particularly valuable when you're dealing with blind dadoes.
Collets:
To simplify bit changing, we recommend a self-ejecting collet, combined
with a spindle lock. The spindle lock loosens the collet with a
single wrench; the collet then ejects the bit. Look for a collet
that will take 1/2-inch bits, and expect your router to come with
a straight-cut bit so you can get started right away. You might
want to supplement your basic bit with one or two roundover bits
(also called bullnose bits) and perhaps a cove or ogee bit for fancier
work. But pay attention with collets: some makers sell routers with
metric collets only (typically 9 mm). There's nothing wrong with
that, other than the fact that you'll be restricted to metric bits.
Power:
Power ratings for models that can run on standard domestic electricity
range from less than 1 to 3-and-1/2 horsepower. One school of thought
says you should look for as much power as you can afford, all else
being equal. Whether you're attempting to muscle through knots or
make deep cuts in hardwood, more power will allow your bits to eat
through workpieces easily. But almost invariably, more power means
a heavier tool, so the trick is to balance your router needs with
a weight that's comfortable.
Accessories:
In addition to a variety of bits and a router table, you'll want
accessories including some kind of edge guide or fence (for cutting
slots for shelves and facings), vacuum fittings (to keep dust down),
safety goggles (routers love to spray chips at high speeds), and
ear plugs.
Laminate
Trimmers
If you're on
a budget, try looking into a laminate
trimmer as a router alternative. While they're not nearly as
versatile as full-size routers, an inexpensive lam cutter can do
wonders for the appearance of stock lumber. If you round over the
edges of a shelf or tabletop - which takes hardly any time at all
- you'll be impressed by the dramatic improvement in the workpiece's
looks. Additionally, you can use a laminate cutter for fine inlay
work and even trimming veneers.
by
David Wall
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